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• "Steps to Slaughter a Pig," the award-winning diorama by Kenai Peninsula 4H member Taylor Shelden, in the 4H Exhibits building. (Step one reads, "Shoot pig one inch above the eye.")
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Notes: Served on a hoagie-style bun. A lot of yummy meat for the money.
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There was usually a line at Denali Cream Puffs (Red Trail), where the large goo-filled pastries ($6) are covered in fudge, berry or caramel pecan toppings.
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I do this so you won’t have to — sampling barbecued pork ribs at the Alaska State Fair from every outlet I could find.
Notes: Dry rub, good sauce available on the side. Deep smoke flavor to the meat, which was quite lean and did not leave the sesame bun soggy. Comes with cole slaw on the side.
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Make a few squares of aluminum foil and fold so they fit into a plastic bag. If you decide you can’t finish that funnel cake or corn dog right now, use the foil to wrap up the leftover portion and take it home. I saw a lot of perfectly good — and frankly expensive — half-eaten servings of food in trash cans that would probably stay down just fine if you weren’t trying to recover from the Orbitron ride.
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Roscoe’s Catfish & Barbecue, 8 oz., $7
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Notes: Very wet meat with a mild, smoky tang that left the plain bun soggy.
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Now Bai’s added a fourth product, basically the caramel, but with a dollop of Alaska birch syrup. "It’s robust," says Bai. I say it’s sweet and sticky.
However I could taste the birch at a new-to-the-fair vendor. The Alaska Corn Company has been selling gourmet popcorn at the Mall at Sears since 1986. During the fair,ugg boots cheap, you can find them on the Yellow Trail next to the Farm Exhibits barn. Owner Aaron Bai is selling his flavored corn at prices ranging from $2.50 for a "cone" to $8. There’s the Big Bear Caramel, with brown sugar and molasses, the lighter Coolest Caribou Crunch, with lots of butter and a hint of vanilla (my favorite), and Captain Cheesy.
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The quest began at Roscoe’s Catfish & Barbecue on the Red Trail where I got three ribs for $9. These are Carolina-style, smoked behind the booth and adorned with a vinegary sauce that’s customary on the Atlantic coast but is regarded as heresy west of the Appalachian Trail. But Anchorage folk are familiar with the taste and quality of Roscoe’s food. They have plates of two ribs, rice and beans for $8, or ala carte half racks, $13, and whole racks, $25.
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I went back to the same places where I got the ribs to try their pork sandwiches. None were a bargain when compared to the one-third pound all-Alaska meat burger at Slippery Gulch (8 1/2 oz., $5.25) or Smoky Joe’s Jumbo Turkey Leg (2 lb. 2 oz., $8). But for barbecue, price is relative.
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Finally, I found Country Boy Bar-B-Que, just about the first thing you see if you come through the Yellow gate. A rib plate with roll is $9.50. It was my favorite, dry-rubbed but served with their sweet — yet not thick — homemade sauce. Lots of meat, nicely balanced between soft and chewy,Australia Ugg Boots, the best of all possible worlds.
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Either way, you ought to try it and share it with your out-of-state friends. Bai has boxes suitable for shipping. But do it now; Bai says he can barely keep up with business at Christmas.
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Bring your own sodas, water or juice in backpacks. Chill the can or bottle before you leave the house and wrap it in a newspaper to keep it cool. The same can of Pepsi that costs $1.50 at the fair was on sale for 30 cents at Carrs last week.
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• The Kenai Peninsula Racing Pigs, at 1:30, 4 and 7 p.m. today and Saturday.
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Notes: Somewhat hot spicy sauce, cole slaw served on top of the meat. Piquant and juicy. Served on a sesame bun.
The one thing they didn’t like was a pretzel with cheese at Pioneer Peak Pretzel Co. (Yellow Trail, $4), which they described as too doughy and undercooked.
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I enlisted the help of two volunteers, Edith King of Anchorage and John Akpik of Barrow. They also made a beeline for Roscoe’s. "There’s something really Mmm about the ribs," said Edith. John praised the rice and beans.
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If you like barbecue pork, you may also like:
They also had a nine-inch thin crust pepperoni pizza at the Pizza Hut booth ($8, Yellow Trail) and called it good.
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The non-heretical, Texas-style of sauce is served by members of the Church of God in Christ at Center of Hope BBQ on the Purple Trail. This is sweeter, not particularly spicy, but perky. For $7.50 I got a three-rib sandwich. Sandwich? Not quite. You still need to gnaw the meat off the bones, but here they’re placed on one piece of bread sliced diagonally. While plenty tender, the ribs were chewier than the ribs I had elsewhere; Center of Hope was the only outlet that didn’t have a smoker operating on site. It was also the only outfit that thoughtfully included a moist toilette.
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(However, the folks at the Cross Country Church of Wasilla booth, on the Yellow Trail, also hand out complimentary Wet-Naps.)
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Ribs aren’t the most perfect fair food, perhaps; they don’t have the mode of carefree consumption like cotton candy or pork on a stick. Although they’re eaten with one’s hands, you need to sit down to do it right. Then there’s the question of where to find a lavatory when you’re done to wash the sticky off your hands and face.
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John went for the traditional turkey leg at Gobbler’s Grill, in part because it’s about as much meat as you can get for the money. And the two also stopped for an Alaska Elephant Ear ($5.50, Yellow Trail) which they loved. "It’s like the perfect sweet snack," said Edith.
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Meanwhile, I’d found Matanuska Creamery ice cream at Big Dipper Concessions (Yellow Trail) where a single scoop cone cost $3. I went for the birch syrup ice cream. It was a nice tonic after all that barbecue, but tasted like a good vanilla scoop to me, any birch flavor being invisible.
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Tyrone Thompson mans one of his grills at the Country Boy Bar-B-Que food stand at the Alaska State Fair in Palmer on Saturday, Sept. 3, 2009. The fair runs through Sept. 7.
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Back on the Red Trail, at Gobbler’s Grille, famed for turkey legs, I got four ribs for $8, a good deal. They were dry rubbed and served to me without sauce; I found out later that the server is supposed to ask if you want it. When I tasted it a few days afterwards, it was bright and not particularly spicy. The meat was plentiful and juicy and fell off the bone easily, but the flavor had little personality. Maybe because it had to share its smoke with turkeys.
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